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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.